Week 2 of Greece at a Crossroads: History, Landscape, and Material Culture

15 April 2024

By Ellie Simon ’26

Week 2 in Greece was brimming with visits to sites—the Athenian Agora, the archaeological sites of Dimini, Thermopylae, Dimitrias, and the Castle of Lamia—and museums—the Athenian Agora, the modern city of Volos, 沃罗斯的考古博物馆——在我们作为一个班级的正式和非正式讨论中得到了很好的赞扬.

Temple of Hephaestus

约翰·帕帕多普洛斯(John Papadopoulos)是雅典集市发掘部的负责人,他带领我们参观了遗址和博物馆. To be candid, 我对集市的先入为主的看法使我认为它留下的东西比实际留下的要多得多. 相对完整的赫菲斯托斯神庙与其他房屋的遗迹形成鲜明对比, temples, monuments, stoa激起了我的兴趣:为什么某些考古特征比其他的保存得更好? As I thought about this, 我意识到自然和人为的力量都会影响考古特征的结果, even within a site.

For example, 我认为建筑在Agoraios Kolonos山上的自然高度与场地中其他低海拔的特征相反, 也是雅典市中心的最低排水点,可能可以防止建筑物被水损坏. On the other hand, 人类对神庙的持续使用和占用——古典时期的神庙, a Christian church in Byzantine through Ottoman times, 作为一个埋葬亲希腊人的地方,这让我想知道,这个空间的宗教和文化意义是否比其他在古代仅仅具有祭祀意义的特征更有可能被保存和照顾.

Nevertheless, our tour of the Agora was inspiring, 这不仅是因为我们得以一窥过去希腊人的物质生活, but also because of Dr. Papadopoulos’ extensive knowledge of the site and ancient Greek history.

Agoraios Kolonos Hill, crowned with the Temple of Hephaestus

To tie in memory, one of our main themes of the course, 我从雅典集市之旅中得到的最大收获之一就是我们——无论是古典学者, college students, 或者一般公众会把像集市这样的具有深刻历时性的场所与文化历史上的特定时刻联系起来. 在我看来,我们与广场,甚至整个现代希腊民族国家的联系,与古典时期来自于对永恒哲学的敬畏和怀旧, political, literary, and cultural achievements of the era.

As we continue with the OCS program, 我很有兴趣看看这种对古典时期的关注是否在我们参观的希腊其他遗址和博物馆中同样普遍, and to pinpoint more specifically why that is.

Athenian Agora

我一点也不知道,我们为期三天的沃罗斯之旅将包括一些我生命中最令人叹为观止的景色和难忘的经历, of course, incredibly fascinating archaeology and history). Over the course of the weekend, we visited the archaeological sites of Thermopylae, Dimini, Dimitrias, and Lamia.

对我来说很明显的一件事是,我们所访问的所有地点的地形和地理如何直接影响它们作为战略军事和旅行路线的地位. For example, Demetrias not only was able to control the land passage of Thessaly, but also the naval areas of the Pagasitic Gulf. Similarly, Thermopylae’s position near mountains and sea made it extremely defendable, 是什么影响了波斯人在公元前480年超越列奥尼达和斯巴达人的能力.

On Thursday in class before we left for the trip, we learned about the significant landscape change that has engulfed the region. Especially in regards to the recession of the gulf, 景观变化对考古遗址和挖掘的影响对我来说是最令人困惑和着迷的事情之一.

Landscape of Thermopylae

到目前为止,我们对景观考古学的关注——过去的人们如何最大限度地利用他们周围的环境,并适应不断变化的条件——向我展示了物质文化之间的深刻联系, human alteration of the landscape, and the natural environment. 我想整个周末我最喜欢的部分之一就是Alex大声朗读诗歌——用希腊语和英语朗诵. 结合美丽的风景和我们对每个地点发生的事件的新知识, 听到这一切与我最喜欢的一种文学形式联系在一起,真是太棒了.

Horses at the archaeological site of Demetrias

We visited two museums in Volos: the archaeological museum, and the historical museum of the modern city of Volos, and I thoroughly enjoyed both. 在这次旅行中,我上的一门课是关于现代希腊人类学和历史的, 因此,与学术界提炼出来的信息相比,参观现代博物馆并通过原始材料来源看到希腊(或Volos)历史的呈现媒介是发人深省的. I thought it was interesting, even in this relatively small city museum, how there was an undertone of Greek resistance to the “other” (e.g. the Ottomans and Germans), 以及Volos居民在工业化和城市化过程中表现出的韧性.

Greek port city of Volos

沃罗斯的考古博物馆是我周末最喜欢去的地方之一. 参观所有的考古遗址,听取从遗址中找到的物品的情况, and then going to see what they looked like in the flesh was, to put it crassly, super cool. 我认为博物馆的历时设置是非常有效的,它的流动非常好.

Starting with prehistoric finds, progressing through the Classical and Hellenistic sections, 完成后期的作品帮助我将艺术随时间的变化形象化, religion, and culture (and more broadly, the use of materials) that took place in the region. 我最喜欢的一些作品包括青铜时代晚期的生育雕像, and the grave steles with paint from the 2nd and 3rd centuries BC, especially the one with the complete inscription.

Late Bronze Age figurines at the Archaeological Museum of Volos

虽然我不认为我们在雅典的第一个星期可能会更好, our second week was incredibly special to me. 我想我非常感激这次旅行的一个主要原因——除了配套的酒店水疗和美味的τσιπο αδικα之外——是我能够通过阅读古希腊的书籍来反思和挑战我自己对古希腊生活的假设,然后通过参观考古遗址和博物馆来窥探古人的物质生活, and learning from some of the premier scholars in the field. Also, 我非常感谢我们这个项目的团队:看到每个人都很享受,听到每个人都在反思他们的经历,这让我感到非常充实和敬畏. I cannot wait to experience the rest of Greece with everyone, and to build on our themes of identity, empire, and memory.

Castle of Lamia

Read this piece on the Spring 2024 Blog for Greece at a Crossroads: History, Landscape, and Material Culture!